I second gedit, just installed it on my Mac, and it doesn't look like complete ass. (It does however use GTK for file open dialogs etc. so that might put other people off?)
Hasn't Apple somehow killed GTK on Snow Leopard? There was something that made gvim stop working, so I had to switch to mvim. Sorry can't remember the details, but gedit might be hurt, too? Or was that just a MacPorts problem?
