For non-Americans who might take this article at face value: As an American this has never been a tradition in my family or any I've known, and it's not a Thanksgiving staple on any radio station I've listened to. (America's huge and diverse, so YMMV of course.)
Thank you for that. Also as an American, I too have never heard of this. When I saw the words Alice and restaurant, I thought back to the TV sitcom called Alice from the 1970's-1980's who worked at Mel's Diner.
As far as American Thanksgiving staples I'm aware of, it's:
I think it's a northeast thing. But not everyone in the northeast knows it, either. You're more likely to know it if you have to drive for at least an hour for Thanksgiving dinner and you like to browse radio stations.
FWIW this seems to be a NY focused publication and my understanding is that the tradition started on WNEW. I grew up listening to it, but I have no idea how far it’s spread outside of the NYC metro area.
FWIW I've heard this song exactly once, driving into Dallas around 22 years ago on the classic rock station to go watch an NFL game. I was amazed by how long it went on.
The only reason I remember it is the same riff is used in The Doors (who I really got into around the same time) song "WASP".
It's very big in the tri-state area around NY. At a recent friends-giving I brought it up and everyone except one person who grew up in the midwest didn't know what this was.
It mainly became a tradition in those pop radio markets which were already well-established during the Vietnam war, and where there was wide sentiment against the idea of being drafted into the military to fight for someone else's country. A lot of young people (now boomers) would have rather been doing something worthwhile for America itself instead.